Friday, April 27, 2012

Needlepoint Plastic Mesh how to


Making needlepoint plastic mesh armies. Buy a sheet of either #10 (smallest) or #7 (bottom 3 strips above) needlepoint plastic mesh. Using an exacto knife make the appropriate cuts in the plastic mesh. Horses are done with the Van Pelt cut which can be found here. I use a modified Van Pelt cut, leaving the horses connected to speed painting.

Infantry are simple vertical cuts. Top half of infantry painted with coat colors or flesh and bottom half are pants color or flesh. Yes, your Picts and Gauls can be their naked selves without offending anyone.  Top of plastic infantry peg is painted an appropriate helmet/hat color. Part of the fun is figuring out a simple paint scheme, and painting is fast. I use craft paint, prefer Ceramcoat (if I can find) or Apple Barrel.

Round shields are made with 1/8" paper punch for #7 mesh and 1/16" paper punch for #10 mesh. These paper punches are available at Michaels, use your discount coupons to reduce cost further.
Making rectangular shields. Tiny scissors and marking off card stock piece at between 1/8" & 1/16" (for #7) then cutting strips length-wise, guesstimate the cross cut. Some shields are closer to square, but work. Dot of glue on plastic & dot of glue on small pot sticker, pick up card stock, flip and attach. By the last couple it's an easy routine. The cutting is easier because you can make so many, fast. Discard or trim the excess cardstock.

I mount my completed strips on balsa (I use DBA and DBA-HX standards for 15mms, but minimum stand size is 20mm, 15mm stands are just too full ) with Aleene's Quick drying Tacky Glue and balancing them for a minute with a small pot sticker.



I use 4" X 6" photo storage boxes (also found at Michaels) to store armies. Since they are so light, you can double stack them inside boxes.

Please look at previous entries. Clicking on photos enlarges them, so you can determine the patterns I used for mounting them on bases. Any questions, just ask.



No comments:

Post a Comment