Nieuport Tri

I tend to leave the hardest for last. So the last to be constructed and primed (though it will remain white with a light gray camouflage) was the cantilevered Nieuport Triplane. Yikes, this was deconstructed more times than I care to think about. The other Tris were a bear, as was getting the Fokker tails decent looking, but this plane was the worst.

Of course, upon announcing the construction phase was finally over, my dear wife reminded me that I hadn't done a Russian plane. So the last plane done was actually a Nieuport with the gun over the top wing. Comrade Krebikov flies again.

Curse you Ken Van Pelt. We will meet someday at dawn over the Western Front.

Quick Progress Report

Not much time, so I'll let "the pictures tell a thousand words". Boy do these things soak up the paint.

Lower left a Fokker 8 (bumblebee, single wing) at 2 o'clock the gray Eindecker ("so I can shoot through that propeller ?" with a German accent). My favorites on the right are the Black Maria (triplane with black nose) and in front of it the Black Prince (Sopwith Camel). "Thank you Canada". Looking for a mini Snoopy figure to pilot the Sopwith Camel with the Red Nose. Still printing out markings and insignias... pass the glue stick.

"Curse you Ken Van Pelt"

Clothes pin Air Force

When life brings you rain, use your clothes pins to make WW I planes. About time I came up with my own inspirational quote. Inspired by Kenneth Van Pelt at the Penny Whistle, I decided to design and make my own WW I planes. An heirloom for my grandson, Eric (I'm sure he wouldn't mind me playing with them for a few more years).
   Now for some technical clothes pin jargon. First on the left is a square "No roll clothespins" available at most craft stores. Next is a "doll pin" also available at most craft stores. Next is what I call a button clothes pin (semi-old fashion model) found in our clothes pin bag (or on the internet). Finally on the right is the classic old fashioned clothes pin, also from our clothes pin bag (more expensive but found on internet).
     Now cut the heads off the "dolls head", button (only used for my version of the Eindecker), and classic (far right) clothes pins. The classic is used primarily for making the German Albatross. The square works for the S.E. 5A,  the Fokker D7 and other square nosed planes. The headless "doll pins" works on most other planes, such as the Triplanes, Sopwiths and some Nieuports. For an excellent guide to all WW I aircraft check out here . Also "Image Googling" any aircraft by name will get a wide variety of images.
     Some Jumbo Wood sticks, mixed circles, and dowels and a glue gun (all available at most craft stores) and Voila.

Now where did I put my paint brushes ? Stoke up the printer we need some plane markings.

Meet the Alans

                                                       Alan Blades (not a Porn Star) above with multicolored shields.

                                                            Alan Cavalry, above. Knights & Light Horse

                                                             Alan Light Horse, above.

Finishing up my "Barbarian" armies for a planned Barbarian playoff.  Shields are made with 1/16th paper punch and multiple colored card stock. Cheaper way to make those "curiosity" DBA armies than using lead miniature.

Needlepoint Plastic Mesh (Granny Grate) how to

Making needlepoint plastic mesh (Granny Grate) armies. Buy a sheet of either #10 (smallest) or #7 (bottom 3 strips above) needlepoint plastic mesh. Using an exacto knife make the appropriate cuts in the plastic mesh. Horses are done with the Van Pelt cut which can be found here. I use a modified Van Pelt cut, leaving the horses connected to speed painting.

Infantry are simple vertical cuts. Top half of infantry painted with coat colors or flesh and bottom half are pants color or flesh. Yes, your Picts and Gauls can be their naked selves without offending anyone.  Top of plastic infantry peg is painted an appropriate helmet/hat color. Part of the fun is figuring out a simple paint scheme, and painting is fast. I use craft paint, prefer Ceramcoat (if I can find) or Apple Barrel or you could try No Paint Armies with Granny Grate.

Round shields are made with 1/8" paper punch for #7 mesh and 1/16" paper punch for #10 mesh. These paper punches are available at Michaels, use your discount coupons to reduce cost further.
Making rectangular shields. Tiny scissors and marking off card stock piece at between 1/8" & 1/16" (for #7) then cutting strips length-wise, guesstimate the cross cut. Some shields are closer to square, but work. Dot of glue on plastic & dot of glue on small pot sticker, pick up card stock, flip and attach. By the last couple it's an easy routine. The cutting is easier because you can make so many, fast. Discard or trim the excess cardstock.

I mount my completed strips on balsa (I use DBA and DBA-HX standards for 15mms, but minimum stand size is 20mm, 15mm stands are just too full ) with Aleene's Quick drying Tacky Glue and balancing them for a minute with a small pot sticker.

I use 4" X 6" photo storage boxes (also found at Michaels) to store armies. Since they are so light, you can double stack them inside boxes.

Please look at previous entries. Clicking on photos enlarges them, so you can determine the patterns I used for mounting them on bases. Any questions, just ask.

NKE & Hittites from #7 Needlepoint plastic mesh

               Overall view with Hittites on left and New Kingdom Egyptians on right (above).

Hittite spears with shields and Psiloi and Horde.

                                         Hittite chariots.

New Kingdom Egyptians with archers in rear.

                                          New Kingdom Egyptian chariots, psiloi & warband.

Doing it right

Upgraded the Late Eastern Romans to rectangular shields.